Whole Wheat Sandwich Bread with Home-Milled Flour

For a long time I used the Whole Grain Sandwich Bread and enjoyed it but it was a bit too sweet for me. When I read Stella Parks’ brilliant 100% Whole Wheat Sandwich Bread on Serious Eats I gained a new favorite recipe. The only reason I am publishing a version here is that I had to quite dramatically reduce the amount of water in the recipe to make it work. The only reason I can think of for this is that perhaps home-milled whole wheat flour has more moisture. All I know is that every time I made Parks’ recipe as written, it was too gloopy and I ended up with slack loaves. So if you need ratios for home-milled flour, keep reading. But I cannot begin to match Parks’ precision and photos so if you want to see the details on technique, read her original recipe. 

While we could use this bread for sandwiches, our favorite use for it is to turn it into toast and have it along side homemade soup. It is reminiscent in the best way of the frozen Rhodes whole wheat bread my mom used to bring home from the grocery store and which I loved. I can make a loaf or two (one after the other as my 16-cup Breville food processor isn’t quite powerful enough to make two loaves at once), slice them and freeze them ready to pull out and toast.

INGREDIENTS

425g hard red wheat berries, freshly milled
260g room temperature water (well if your room is as cool as ours—65 degrees F or so)
50g light brown or regular sugar
2 3/4 tsp Diamond kosher salt
2 rounded tsp instant yeast (not rapid-rise. We use SAF brand)
Additional 55g cool water mixed with 
28g neutral or flavored oil (I put it in a small silicone measuring cup)

DIRECTIONS

  1. Mix the whole wheat flour with the water in a large bowl. I like to use my dough whisk for this part. You want to make sure there is no loose flour left in the bowl.  Then cover loosely with a tea towel, cling wrap or a silicone lid and set aside for 2 1/2 hours
  2. Once the resting time is over, break the dough into pieces and put in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the blade (not dough) attachment 
  3. Add the sugar, yeast and salt
  4. Process for 75 seconds or so until you can make a windowpane with the dough
  5. With the food processor running, drizzle in the oil and water mixture and mix until incorporated. The dough will be really sticky but elastic even with the reduced amount of water
  6. Transfer the dough as best you can back into the big bowl (no need to wash it out) then cover again and let rise until puffy and doubled, about 2 hours
  7. Tip out the dough onto a lightly-floured board, counter or silicone mat. Because I’m milling my own flour, I don’t bother to mill extra just for this purpose and just use all-purpose white flour
  8. Pat into a 7-inch square and then fold each side inward to make a loaf shape. I squish the loaf together pretty well so the seam doesn’t fall open
  9. Put shaped loaf into a lightly-greased 1lb loaf tin and let rise until the dough is about 2 1/2 inches above the pan in the middle. It will take an impression and spring back once it’s ready. Cover gently again with the tea towel and let rise about 75 minutes or until it meets the criteria
  10. At the hour mark, preheat the oven to 350 degrees F, making sure the rack is in the middle
  11. Bake the loaf for about 45 minutes or to an internal temperature of about 200 degrees F. 
  12. Remove from the oven and turn out onto a rack to cool. Let cool completely before slicing (though we often do not manage this—it does make the slices more gummy if you slice too soon)
I love this photo of the loaf not because it has a beautiful shape but because of the circumstances that made it look this way. We knew that a bad windstorm was predicted for tonight. I decided to get a dinner of soup and bread ready quite early so we could still have a hot meal even if we lost power. I succeeded with the soup, making a navy bean and Italian sausage soup in the Instant Pot. But three minutes after I slide the loaf into the oven we lost power for an hour. So it spent that hour in an oven slowly losing heat. Then when we got power back (for an hour before it went out again) I brought the oven back up to temp for the last 20 minutes. That’s why it looks all lumpy on the top. But it’s completely edible and tastes just fine and we were grateful to have it. We had our dinner in the light but the remains of our Christmas Yule Log by candlelight after the power went out again. 




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